Thursday, July 16, 2009

Villa Altachiara

I'm currently reading Elizabeth von Arnim's 1922 novel "The Enchanted April" in which four women come together to share a one month holiday in a villa in Italy. The 1992 film based on this book was called "Enchanted April" and the location chosen was a place called Villa Altachiara in Portofino, Italy. April in Portofino is indeed enchanting. As the book describes it:

"The wisteria was tumbling over itself in excess of life, its prodigality of flowering; and where the pergola ended, the sun blazed on scarlet geraniums, bushes of them, and nasturtiums in great heaps and marigolds so brilliant that they seemed to be burning... every sort of colour piled up in heaps, pouring along in rivers."

The above passage is quoted from a recent holiday review article titled Portofino: a port town that has evaded the uglier side of tourism with the clever subtitle of how to holiday with the have-yachts. What's even more special about this villa is that Meher Baba stayed there for a month in July of 1933. The magic of the location combined with Baba's presence made this a very memorable time for his followers who stayed with or visited him. As described in Lord Meher:

Link "During Baba's stay in Portofino, the cool moonlight lit up the night and the stars shone in all their brilliance. One evening, it was absolutely quiet around the villa, as if a message of peace and joy on earth was being conveyed to humanity. The lovers and mandali gathered around Baba who appeared exceedingly beautiful, wearing a royal blue jacket. The silent atmosphere immobilized them like an intoxicant.

The moon shone on Baba's face, the scent of jasmine hung around them, and the songs of cicadas were heard in the background. "It was one of the most timely, most beautiful moments with Baba," remembered Delia DeLeon. "We just sat there and never said a word." They could see Baba's smiling countenance and flowing hair as if aglow with light."

Well it turns out that Villa Altachiara is for sale. No price is mentioned but with its spacious grounds and 30 spacious rooms, it would not come cheap. There is more information and photographs to be found here.


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5 comments:

the deedster said...

Sorry to dash your expectations on the rocks, but I'm afraid a correction might be in order.

The movie Enchanted April was filmed at Castello Brown not at Villa Altachiara, which appears to have its own unique history.

VOODOOGURU said...

Thanks for the correction. I read my original sources of information and realised I'd misinterpreted what was written.

William Cross FSA Scot said...

What an enchanting scene this this from the pictures despite its various links with death and mystery!! As the biographer of Almina, the 5th Countess of Carnarvon, of Tutankhamun fame, may I add a few footnotes. This large house “Alta Chiara “ was of course the Italian version of the name of the Herbert family seat in England at "Highclere". It was built by Henry, the 4th Earl of Carnarvon as his family’s sacred retreat. Guests and visitors were very distinguished, it was a favourite spot of the Empress Frederick of Germany, daughter of Queen Victoria, the mother of the Kaiser and a friend of the Herberts.

Villa Altachiara was a scene that sparked many glorious ( but also many sad ) events in the Carnarvon family. It in closing years of the 4th Earl’s life he and his second wife, Elsie. spent their winters there.

The 4th Earl’s noted eldest son, George Herbert, later the 5th Earl’s life long frailalties, genetic and self-inflicted, including the ravages of diseased skin and lungs were somewhat relieved by the Italian climate of Portofino. As Viscount Porchester, he often recuperated there, until his step mother, Elsie inherited the property from her husband, the 4th Earl in 1890. George never warmed to Elsie, although her letters ( to her brother, the diplomat, Esme Howard ) show a strong motherly tone, even towards him in their later years. Carnarvon was ill fated and died at only 58, after the infamous mosquito bite. Elsie’s guests at Portofino were numerous and covered eminent folks from the world of politics, religion (mainly Catholic, of course) and science. Her own death at her beloved Villa of Altachiara overlooking the Mediterranean was what she would have most craved. She had just finished her day’s correspondence in bed. She had the notion of going out into enjoying the rays of the winter sun (it was 1 February, 1929) and suddenly falling back lost consciousness and did not wake again.

George Carnarvon’s half- brother, Aubrey ( one of the two sons of Elsie and the 4th Earl ), famously declared once that “ if an man can have a second country, Italy is my second country.” Aubrey did not reach old bones and died a few months after Carnarvon. His widow, Mary Herbert, succeeded to Villa Altachiara and the site Became a veritable literary colony for poets, painters and writers, including Evelyn Waugh, Alfred Duggan, Peter Acton and Brooke Astor.

William Cross, FSA, Scot: Author of " The Life and Secrets of Almina Carnarvon" a candid biography of the 5th Countess of Carnarvon of Tutankhamun fame.

Giddy Spinster said...

But Villa Altachiara is the Italian counterpart to Highclere Castle, both owned by the Earl of Carnavon--Highclere Castle and it's residents are the inspiration for Downton Abbey.

Giddy Spinster said...

But Villa Altachiara is the Italian counterpart to Highclere Castle, both owned by the Earl of Carnavon-of Tutankamun fame. Highclere Castle and it's residents are the inspiration for Downton Abbey--an obsession of millions of viewers.